Of all the diseases confronting mushroom growers, none have been the subject of more confusion than viral diseases. Viral diseases can be confused with the effect of poor cultural practices or the bacterial disease mummy. Since no known commercial mushroom strain is resistant to viruses, growers must incorporate preventive measures into the IPM plan and rigorously carry out control measures.
The virus lives in mushroom spores and mycelium (spawn). Infected spores spread the disease to other new crops. Infected mycelium (spawn) may survive in the bed boards or quickly spread in bulk phase III facilities. Spores survive many years and can be released during farm renovations.
Symptoms (Figure 1-4):
Severe infection:
Control:
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1) Bacterial Blotch
Signs and Symptoms:
2) Mummy Disease
Signs and Symptoms:
By David M. Beyer, Penn State University
Fungal Diseases
The life cycle for fungal pathogens like Dry Bubble, Trichoderma, and Cobweb is simple, Figure 1. Spores germinate into mycelium, which forms structures that produce spores. In a petri dish culture that may take less than a week; in compost or casing, it is probably pretty much the same. However, other factors like pH, moisture, and nutrient availability may influence this life cycle timing. Much of that, however, is unknown for these pathogens.
Figure 1 Typical fungal life cycle showing spores to fruiting. Source: researchgate.net |
Looking at the disease cycle in mushroom cultivation, we know a relationship exists between spore load, time of infection, and symptoms or signs of disease development. Let’s look at the three most common fungal diseases and what we know about these relationships.
Dry Bubble, caused by Lecanicillium, or Verticillium has symptoms that develop based on spore load and timing of infection. Spores coming in contact with a fully colonized spawn run don’t germinate well and little disease will develop. It may be possible that spores landing on the substrate the day before or the day of casing could cause an early disease development. Spores in contact with the rhizomorphs in the casing will easily germinate. How fast they germinate, and the vegetative mycelium growth may be influenced by casing pH, moisture, relative humidity, and temperature.
It is unknown what the optimum conditions are but in general the warmer the conditions the faster the growth and the shorter time from spore to symptom development. In general, spore to symptom takes about seven to 14 days depending on the above factors. However, when Dry Bubble mycelium is in contact with mushroom pins,metabolites are produced that degrade mushroom tissue. This process seems quick, perhaps hours to a day or two.
Read the full factsheet here.
Written by: David M. Beyer
We are observing that the amount of mycelium in the casing soil often leaves much to be desired. Ideally, thick mycelium strands should grow from the bottom to the top of the casing soil, while leaving enough casing soil not yet overgrown with mycelium. This remaining casing soil serves as a water buffer for the compost and mushrooms.
It's crucial to remember that this water buffer also determines how long and how much you can evaporate in the growing room before the casing soil dries out. If the casing soil dries out, you will need to water, even if it's not ideal for the mushroom quality. Therefore, it is important to pay close attention to the mycelium growth in the casing soil.
If there is structurally too much mycelium in the casing soil, a few adjustments can improve the situation. One option is to start ventilating earlier, although this means the mycelium may not reach the surface as much as usual. You can also adjust the watering schedule.
Once the mycelium starts growing from the top layer of compost and the casing material, it is essential to keep the casing soil well-moisturized. Each watering essentially stops the mycelium; weak mycelium struggles with this and can barely continue developing, whereas strong mycelium has fewer issues and continues to grow. In this way, you encourage more strong mycelium and reduce the amount of mycelium in the casing soil.
Our mushroom strains tend to form pins quite spontaneously, so many growers are ventilating extremely slowly. While this isn't necessarily a problem, it's important to realize that as long as the compost temperature is above 23°C, the mycelium will keep growing in the casing soil. Therefore, you should start ventilating earlier or increase circulation to bring the compost temperature below 23°C quickly. Once the compost temperature reaches 23°C, you can reduce circulation and control the number of pins by adjusting the air temperature.
I believe that with this method, you can control the amount of mycelium to some extent without leading to too many pins or a lack of distribution in the first flush. You might also consider using slightly heavier casing soil.
Slightly drier casing soil offers more certainty in terms of mycelium growth. Also, pay attention to covering. Avoid running the pinning axis and leveler too quickly to prevent structural damage. The mixing of the casing should be adequate, but more speed is unnecessary for the pinning axis.
Written by: Jeroen van Lier | Total Mushroom Service
One of the most effective ways to avoid diseases in the mushroom industry is a cook-out at the end (or beginning) of each cycle.
To reduce the chance that some spores of diseases or insects will survive in the growing rooms after the last day of harvest, it is vital to thoroughly cook out the growing rooms. To ensure that all diseases and pests are killed, it is necessary to heat the entire growing area to 70 ° C for 8 to 12 hours using steam. The entire growing area means that the compost also reaches this temperature for 8-12 hours. Why do I say 8 to 12 hours? In highly effective farms the whole room will be on the same temperature (compost, floors, corners) and 8 hours will be enough, in other farms where you are less effective, meaning the entire room will not be at the same temperature, it would be better to extend the cook-out time to 12 hours.
Often, for reasons of cost or time savings, it is decided to shorten the time or keep the temperature lower, which has the risk that virus can survive. However, to be on the safe side, 70 °C for 8-12 hours is the benchmark, especially if there are diseases or pests on your farm. Some farms decide to cook-out on lower temperatures, especially phase 3 compost farms, to just eliminate the spores for bubbles and cobweb and those are eliminated on lower temperatures. With the high energy prices, a very understandable approach. If there is no virus or Trichoderma on the farm it is probably enough to cook-out on only 60 °C.
After the cook-out, the new growing cycle begins, so it is important that from this moment on no traces of mushrooms, germs or insects end up in the growing area. This is often neglected during emptying, which means that the usefulness of the (expensive!!!) cook-out has been for nothing.
Be aware of that, you invest a lot in cook-out.
Some farms in several countries have not the possibility to cook-out because they have no boiler present on the farm. That means your hygiene has to be excellent, but some farms manage that well. I know farms where they have no boiler and keep the infection very well under control. On the other hand, there are farms that don’t trust their first cook-out and decide to cook the rooms out after emptying and cleaning again before they fill the new compost. Empty rooms are easier and more efficient to cook out.
Of course, you need time in your cycle as well to cook-out. Including the warmup and cooldown period you will need around 24 hours to finish a full cycle. Warming up and especially cooling down needs to be done with a slope up and down in temperature to avoid negative affects to your building.
There are different cooking methods used worldwide. Choose what works best for your farm. If you're building a new farm, consider adding a boiler. Regular cookouts can help prevent problems and keep infections low. This is an effective way to maintain cleanliness and bio security on your farm.
Erik de Groot
glags.spain@gmail.com
https://www.mushroomsconsultant.com/
Dry Bubble Disease is a common fungal disease of the commercial white and brown mushroom Agaricus bisporus. Understanding more about the biology of the fungus that causes Dry Bubble Disease may help growers control this disease. With the difficulty in obtaining new or maintaining existing pesticide registrations, the struggle to control this disease will continue for many years. This fact sheet aims to give growers basic biology and practical information about this disease.
Read the full factsheet here.
By David M. Beyer, Penn State University
Why is casing soil used? There are two main reasons: 1. the Pseudomonas putida bacterium; 2. to regulate evaporation. Mushrooms will not grow without evaporation. The casing soil structure, through the depth of casing and on the surface, is the factor that determines how much water can absorbed and released. This is also known as the water buffer. How can growers influence this effect?
Properties
Casing soil is made up of peat. Peat consist of many small and larger pores which act as communicating structures that affect the flow of water. The very tiny (micro) pores absorb water very slowly, but retain it for a long time. The larger (macro) pores can absorb water faster but release it again very quickly. In good casing soil, both properties are necessary: rapid absorption of water: during mycelium growth and after harvesting, and slow release: during pinhead formation and out grow, and when the mushrooms are harvested.
Air
What is the secret of casing soil? Ensure that the moisture content of the casing soil is good. With “export” casing soil, you have to apply enough water and mix the casing with a loader or bobcat. Ask the supplier for instructions and follow them correctly. This has already been done with casing soil delivered in bulk and ready to use. Casing soil is sensitive to structure loss just before it is applied. If the casing soil is compacted or compressed, the “air” will be squeezed out. This effectively closes off the very crucial micro pores. The casing soil will feel harder. During transport and filling avoid compacting the casing soil too much, for example when using augers, over-filling the hopper on the filler or in front of the levelling axle during filling.
Soft
Casing soil should feel nice and soft. Straight after filling, push your finger into the casing soil. You should be able to plunge your finger in easily and without resistance. Experience will teach you how to feel the difference. A good layer of casing soil after filling is about 6 cm thick. The amount ordered is much less, around 4.5 cm. The rest is air, and these air pockets can largely be filled with the water necessary for the mushrooms to grow!
Mark den Ouden
Mushroom Office
Master class course Mushroom composting and growing is 18 – 23 February, there are still some seats available! Please contact info@mushroomoffice.com ASAP if you want to join! Next course will be 29 April – 4 May.